Home Forums Technical Support Fabric Covering Patching

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • Daniel HallSkyboltone
    Participant
    Post count: 2

    Greetings All:
    I have heard that Stewart Systems fabric glue is the best there is. I have two patches to make on my Rans S7LS factory build. One will cover a 3/4″ diameter hole punched in the side of the fuselage above the N number. The other will be larger, perhaps 6″x10″ on the tail adjacent to the tail spring attachment points inside the frame. I’m hoping I can use the SS glue to secure the fabric, heat to shrink and then finish.

    When Rans built the airplane they used automotive paints for top coat.

    I’m wondering what the steps will be to finish mine.

    Dan
    Reno Nevada

    Stewart SystemsAndy Humphrey
    Keymaster
    Post count: 8

    Dan,
    Yes, our glue will work very well on that. Just scuff sand where you need to glue to. We would recommend sanding through the topcoat to the primer and glue to that for best adhesion. Sometimes if you glue to an automotive topcoat, it might crack and peel off with the patch. (on a certified aircraft it is required to remove the topcoat where the glue joint is) Once the fabric is glued on and shrunk, brush one cross coat of EkoFill into it, then brush or spray two more cross coats of EkoFill. Sand it smooth and feather it out onto your existing paint. Then you can paint over it with the original topcoat. If you need a white base under it for a lighter color topcoat, use E7510 EkoPrime. One cross coat is usually enough.

    Thanks for using the forum!
    Andy

    William HenwoodKiwicubber
    Participant
    Post count: 1

    Hi Andy, thanks for information above. We need to repair our Cub fabric, due to a crack in a longeron in the area of the horizontal stabiliser root that needs welding. We used Stewart system fabric and paints about 4 years ago.
    Do you have any guidance about removing glue as necessary, or any other advice about our repair.

    Cheers Bill Henwood
    Te Kowhai
    New Zealand.

    Larry RossLarry Ross
    Participant
    Post count: 1

    Wow, this answers the question I was going to ask almost exactly. I have some patching to do on an aircraft that had SuperFlite system put on it (I think) 7 or 8 yeas ago. It has been stored so weathering is not a problem, but some hangar rash is. The wings were a different color (Yellow) then re-painted white. The fuselage is all covered for the first time. The wings have a puncture or two, the worst is roughly T shaped and about 4X6″ – I am thinking about a larger patch basically rib to rib in that bay. Does that sound like too much? Owner doesn’t want it to look like a patchwork quilt. The fuselage (Ridgerunner III) has a large tear in the side from transport and I plan to cut out the loose fabric and run the patch to the surrounding stringers and longerons with a two inch tape at the edge for a perimeter (basically over the tapes that already cover those tubes). I just wonder if that sounds like too much or too little.
    The videos are great, very informative, and I looked for one on patching but couldn’t find one. One last question is, when using the Ekofill, how far beyond the patch do you brush it for feathering? just an inch or so?
    Thanks, Larry

    Stewart SystemsAndy Humphrey
    Keymaster
    Post count: 8

    Bill,

    The best way to remove our glue is with our glue eraser, or similar. The old glue will rub off pretty easily. If you do not have one of our erasers, all they are is a Harbor Freight sanding belt cleaning stick. We cut them into little pieces, but you can also use the whole stick. Another option if you have a larger area, 3m makes a decal remover wheel that can be chucked up in a drill and will spin it off pretty easily. You can usually find that at a local auto parts store or Amazon.

    Andy

    Stewart SystemsAndy Humphrey
    Keymaster
    Post count: 8

    Larry,

    With Superflite, just sand down through the topcoat and glue to the primer and it will hold good. You can go from rib to rib. Just pull the old finish tape off and make sure you have at least a 1″ glue joint past the rib. You will probably need a 3″ tape to go over it and cover it properly. I’m not sure what you have for rib stitching, or if this is on the top or bottom of the wing. I’m guessing that one is probably riveted? If so, that makes it easy. If you are doing the top of the wing, just wrap an inch of the old fabric around the rib and glue it. Then drill out the old rivets, glue the patch over it and burn the holes through with a soldering iron and install new rivets. In any situation, make sure you have the minimum overlap joint of 1″, or on a trailing edge of the wing, 2″, and the leading edge of the wing, 3″. I normally take the EkoFill out 1-2″ to feather it out. Don’t forget to use EkoPrime white if you need a white base. Whatever was done on the original, try to do the same as close as possible so the final color matches. For example, if they painted yellow over silver or EkoFill and you use white EkoPrime, your yellow might be prettier, but it won’t match. When you get to painting, one little trick you can use is to cut masking tape with rotary pinking shears and mask your lines with that. Put the pinked tape on last and fold up a tab on the end. As soon as you are done painting, pull the pinked mask up so the wet edge will lay down and when it’s dry it will look like a tape edge. Much easier than blending. After about 12 hours, pull up the rest of the masking to see if you had any overspray penetrate the masking. If you did, you can remove it with lacquer thinner up until about 24 hours after application. From then on, the only way to remove it is sandpaper! Let me know if you have other questions.

    Thanks!
    Andy

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.